I had visions of flat caps and whippets within, with a landlord who can serve real ale, whilst drawing the meat raffle and calling the prize bingo.

I expected toothless locals flouting the smoking ban with reeking roll-ups, and a Big Bob-type bloke selling pheasants and rabbits out the back.

What I got last Friday evening was something quite spectacularly different.

Behind its humble frontage, the Whitehouses boasts one of the best dinner date experiences I have had of late.

The wife-to-be and I were welcomed by a jolly man who I presumed was some kind of owner-cum-manager type person.

He dutifully informed us of the specials board, and directed us to our table in the modern and classy dining area.

After mulling over such delights as seafood tagliatele, Gressingham duck, seared swordfish, local rabbit, moules mariniere, grilled Cornish sardine, giant fish and chips – and lots more – I looked to the happy host for help.

My quandry was between the swordfish and the 16oz rib-eye steak. I was steered towards the rib-eyes, which, I was informed were fresh in that day.

But first up was the starters. The missus went for prawns in garlic butter, and I opted for a crab cocktail.

I chose wrongly. The crab cocktail was awful. It was what looked like delicious and fresh crab meat, served atop some shredded iceberg lettuce and about a gallon of tangy mayo.

All I could taste was this overpowering, over proportioned mayonnaise. Mr jolly host man, remove this dish from your menu, or have your head chef revamp it. It is not worthy of your establishment.

Most gallingly, within touching distance, my partner was gluttonously tucking into a generous helping of shell-on prawns in a delicate garlic butter, with a hunk of fresh bread to boot.

Pleasingly, the shell-on prawns were accompanied by a lemon-infused finger bowl. A nice touch which could easily be overlooked in a busy restaurant.

With the starters dispatched, we waited with some trepidation for the main course. Would it resemble the woeful crab cocktail, or match the exacting standards of the superb prawns.

We needn't have worried. The 16oz steak was easily the best I have ever sampled. Cooked to perfection, the chef had managed to get the meat perfectly pink inside, and yet slightly crisp and buttery on the outside.

Accompanied by tomatoes on the vine and a flat-cap mushroom, with crispy chips and a selection of fresh vegetables – I couldn't have been happier.

And the seafood cocktail is on my radar for my next trip to the Whitehouses. It was fresh, healthy, tasty, and packed with all sorts of ocean pearls – scallops, prawns, calamari, and most importantly, well-cooked pasta.

I also noted that the restaurant was packed – even in these austere times. A compliment indeed.
by James Mitchinson
star rating *****