Its new owners have worked hard to improve the image of the hotel which, to be honest had earned itself a name for being a bit tired and run down.

Already the hotel, situated on the A614 just off Five Lanes End, has boosted its customer potential by installing a spa and beauty experience, and next on its list was refurbishment of the old bar area.

Now, I have been a fairly frequent visitor to this bar area over the years, mostly at lunchtime for business meetings over a quick pub-style meal, and I have to say I abandoned it as a venue around two years ago because it was dark, depressing and without atmosphere.

So it was with some curiosity that I made my way back last week to see whether or not the new owners had injected some much-need TLC into the place.

Now called The Bistro, this substantial bar area looks much better. It is stylish and has an air of sophistication about it. The colours are warm, but muted, and the tables were set, complete with wine glasses, on arrival.

I would love to return in the evening to see whether the owners can pull-off the romantic, candlelit bistro experience.

On to the food. As a menu, The Bistro offers a good selection of food, whether it's just a light bite you're after or something more substantial.

There are also smaller or larger portions of some dishes, depending on your appetite. A main course averages at around £8-£9 for a large portion.

I opted for smoked haddock kedgeree with poached egg and my fellow diner chose the Caesar salad.

My kedgeree was delicious and just the right consistency, and my egg was cooked to perfection – runny but not too under done.

The Caesar salad, while tasty and attractively presented, was, I'm told, not a traditional take on the dish. Apparently a Caesar salad should sport large leaves, not strips of lettuce, and should have garlic as a flavour, where this had none.

However, it was completely devoured with many utterings of appreciation.

Moving on to dessert. As well as all the usual stuff I spied Eton Mess. This is a particular favourtite of mine, both in restaurants and at home.

So, when it arrived I was disappointed. Everyone knows Eton Mess should have meringue in it crumbled together with cream, raspberries and/or strawberries. Well, I'm sorry to say this was a glass full of cream with the odd whisper of fruit in it. No meringue to be seen. I couldn't eat it - my heart wouldn't have thanked me.

Luckily the treacle sponge and school dinner custard my friend chose was much more successful. And the plate was practically licked clean.

So we left with a good impression of the newly refurbished Bistro, just a tad fed-up that my much looked forward to pudding was such a let down.

Sort out your Mess Clumber and I will certainly be back for more!

by Tracy Powell

Star rating HHHH